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A publication of the Chehalis River Council
Project Overview
The Importance of Planting Trees and Vegetation
Potential Tree Planting Areas
Permitting Process
Restoration Methods
Before and After Tree Planting
Where to Obtain Plants
Planting Considerations
"Shade the Chehalis", A Tree Planting Guide for the Chehalis River Basin
Developed by Carol Bordin, Chehalis River Council, 1996
Funded by grants from U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Washington Department of Ecology (DOE)
Edited and published by the Chehalis River Council, copyright January 1997
Permission granted to print working copies, which must include this section.
The following CRC board and staff members contributed to the development of the guide:
The CRC publishes this as a guide for others to use. Users are encouraged to adapt this guide to their own particular set of circumstances. There is no warranty implied or expressed in this document.
The following publications may be used along with this guide. They contain much useful information regarding restoration projects and methods.
Back to top or Back to home page The Chehalis River Council (CRC) is a nonprofit organization established in 1994 by a group of citizens concerned about the environmental conditions and water quality in the Chehalis River Basin. In 1995 the Washington Department of Ecology awarded the CRC a Centennial Clean Water Act grant, DOE 319, to develop a tree planting plan for the Chehalis River watershed. Back to top or Back to home page
Credits, Useful Publications, Copy Permission
Credits
Useful Publications
PROJECT OVERVIEW
Chehalis River Council
"Shade the Chehalis," What's In A Name?
Many creeks, streams and rivers make up the Chehalis watershed. Several of them are in desperate need of restoration efforts to reestablish the biological diversity necessary for healthy riparian and stream ecosystems.
"Shade the Chehalis" is the name the Chehalis River Council has given to cover all our efforts to encourage tree planting projects in the Chehalis basin. We hope to encourage volunteers to help reduce erosion and to improve stream habitat for fish and wildlife by planting native trees, plants and shrubs along streambanks. This project will also help to reduce high water temperatures by creating summertime shade over the streams. Every tree planted and maintained along a streambank will improve water quality and enhance fish and wildlife habitat.
Here's how to be a part of "Shade the Chehalis."
Review this Guide to learn the various needs, options, and methods.
Decide on a project:
Contact the CRC to register your "Shade the Chehalis" project and for help organizing or technical assistance. The CRC can direct you to other agencies such as the Conservation Districts for assistance with large projects.
Plant your shrubs and trees!
Let the CRC know what you did. We'll send you a certificate and publicize some projects.
We all depend on clean water. Let us work together to restore our once pristine Chehalis River watershed.
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According to the Department of Natural Resources Watershed Analysis, the majority (95%) of in-channel large woody debris (LWD) is recruited from within 66 feet of the stream (Murphy and Koski, 1989.) In addition, streams dominated by a red alder stand may not capable of providing sufficient long-term LWD. Therefore, to maintain healthy riparian zones for fish and wildlife, a mixture of native coniferous and deciduous trees, shrubs, and plants should be planted along these degraded riparian zones.
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There are a number of publications that describe stream conditions in the Chehalis Basin. The Chehalis River Basin Action Plan (CRC, 1992) describes in detail the thirteen subbasins of the watershed. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (Wampler, et al., 1993) has studied, documented and mapped impairments to water quality and fish and wildlife. From these documents, which are complete with maps of the basin, subbasins, and the tributaries of the Chehalis River, possible sites may be chosen to begin restoration efforts.
The Washington Department of Ecology produces a report each year that assesses water quality and documents streams that do not meet federal standards (Section 305 (b) Report). Any stream which does not meet "temperature" standards (which includes most streams in the basin) can benefit from tree planting. Streambanks do not need to be severely degraded to benefit from planting trees and shrubs. If you can extend your riparian zone from, for example, 30 feet to 100 feet, this will have a beneficial effect on water quality and fish.
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Restoration projects that involve any instream work such as digging troughs to anchor trees, root wads, or rocks, reshaping banks, and other projects that have the potential of placing sediment into the creek, stream, or River may need a permit. Certain projects may need to be completed in a time duration according to salmonid fish migrations. If a permit is required, it should be obtained before you begin your project. If you are not working in the stream, you may not need a permit. So what kinds of permits are there, and where can you find out about them?
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In the past, several individual permits were needed if a stream restoration project involved any instream work, diversion of water, or sediment input. In 1996 a new permit was created to combine stream restoration project applications into one document that would be submitted to several agencies for review and approval. This new permit, known as the Joint Aquatic Resource Permit (JARPA), is an application that includes hydraulic project approvals, shoreline management permits, water quality certification and approval to exceed standards, and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Section 404 and Section 10 permits. Readable copies of this permit must be submitted with drawings of the project you wish to complete to specific agencies such as the Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife (Hydraulic Project Approval), local Planning Department (Shoreline Management), Washington State Department of Ecology (Water Quality Certification), and U.S. Army Corp. of Engineers (404 and 10). (A copy of the JARPA is provided in Appendix A.) The individual agencies will mail you their individual permits according to their regulations and policy directives. Obtaining these permits will allow you to begin your restoration project, or the project may need additional considerations to be successfully approved.
The local conservation districts can help you complete the JARPA application and provide technical assistance to develop plans and drawings to seek project approvals. Local Indian tribes may also provide technical assistance for the project, as well as representatives from county and state agencies.
If your project does not involve moving, removing, draining, dredging, obstructing, or any other kind of modification of a water body, a permit for revegetating the streambanks may be unnecessary. Again, to help you proceed with your stream restoration project, seek the help and expertise of local organizations, agencies, and conservation districts.
The Washington Department of Ecology has a "Permit Assistance Center" in Lacey. Call (360)407-7037 for information on environmental permits issued by federal, state or local government.
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If you have a bank that has a slope of less than 30 degrees, you have a gradual bank. For example, lawns that go right down to the water are usually on gradual banks. Even slopes like these may be very important habitat areas for fish and wildlife. Gradual banks would be better for fish and wildlife if a mixture of native trees and shrubs were allowed to occupy a portion of the yard. Even though grass may hold or bind the soils, without a canopy overhanging the bank there is little shade to cool the water for fish.
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The steeper the bank, the greater potential for erosion. Coupled with unstable soil types and a long duration of rain during the winter months, these types of banks are quickly erodible. Topsoil may be lost during rains or flooding events at alarming rates. These banks may not only need to be revegetated, but they may need some additional bank stabilizing management practices. Use of willow bundles or waddles placed at the toe or foot of the bank near the water will help to diffuse the flow of the water during high flows such as floods. Willow bundles are created by cutting 4-6 foot branches of native willows, stripping the leaves and twigs off the cuttings and then overlapping the branches, or whips, lengthwise to make an 8 to 12 foot bundle. The bundles are tied together and placed in a trench dug near the level of the water, or above the water in terraces depending on the severity of bank erosion. They also may need to by staked into place and driven into the ground. As these bundles of willow grow, they not only diffuse water, but they catch sediment and help to restore the bank. Several other plants should be planted in association with the willows to provide the best suitable habitat in this section of river. Heavy equipment may also be need to bring large boulders to place at the toe of the bank for added stabilization. Remember, projects that require digging in the stream or heavy equipment may require a JARPA application.
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Restoration Method for Cliff-Like Banks
The method for restoring cliff-like banks includes the following techniques:
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If you need a permit be sure you have the necessary approvals before beginning the project.
The plants to use for "Shade the Chehalis" projects may be obtained in several ways. It is important to use native plant stock (species that are historically common to the area) whenever possible. Here are some ways to obtain native plants.
One of the best ways to revegetate a restoration site is to transplant trees and shrubs that are growing near the site. The land owner may be able to provide areas near the restoration site from which to obtain trees and shrubs. If trees are to be dug up, the roots should be handled carefully by placing a burlap sack around the rootball and tying the sack. Roots should be kept wet and unexposed to the air to keep them from drying out and becoming damaged.
When visiting the site where the restoration project is to occur, record a list of the plants growing in the area. Try to remove any exotic or nonnative plants to allow the native vegetation to become established.
Onsite salvaging of native plants may occur at any time before the site is to be revegetated. Depending on when volunteers are available, plants may be moved to an area near the restoration site to be planted after any bank resloping, or they may be transplanted immediately to the restoration site from the salvage site area, or a combination of these two methods. Some trees with a well established root system may be too large for volunteers to transplant; therefore, special equipment and labor may be needed from other resource agencies to transplant larger evergreen and deciduous trees.
Local nurseries may provide native stock to be planted on the streambanks. Nursery stock preferably should have grown in the general region where it will be planted. Chose stock that is healthy and free from any diseases or insect pests. Ornamental species which may look pleasing to the eye may not adapt well to the area where they are to be planted and should be avoided. A list of local nurseries where plants may be bought is provided in Appendix B.
There are various factors to take into consideration when planting vegetation to restore streambanks in riparian zones. These factors include selecting the right plant for the right place, when to plant the vegetation, where to plant the vegetation, how to plant the vegetation, and the availability of the plants for the restoration project. Let's look at these factors in more detail.
The selection of the right type of plant for the right place is one of the most important decisions you will make before you begin your restoration project. Ideally the best types of plants to use in revegetating streambanks in riparian zones are those that grow in the area. Native plants are adapted to the soil, aspect of the slope, soil type and soil moisture, as well as the climatic conditions and amount of sunlight required for optimum growing conditions. The healthier riparian zones are those that have a mixture of various plants that make up the canopy. These plants may include conifers, deciduous trees, shrubs and vines, grasses, and emergent plants that live in or near the water such as sedges and rushes. Each plant functions in the riparian wetland not only to hold or bind the soil of the streambanks, but also to provide the necessary habitat that fish and wildlife species depend upon for food, cover, and shelter. A list of the various native plants that may be used on the streambanks in the Chehalis River watershed is at the end of this section.
Another important factor to consider in revegetating the streambanks is when to plant the vegetation. There are seasonal constraints that will determine the best time to plant trees, shrubs and other vegetation. The major growing season in the Chehalis watershed begins in April or May and continues through September or October. The spring or fall is usually the best time to revegetate streambanks due to the amount of moisture readily available in the soil, and the fact that vegetation will not need to be watered regularly. Summertime is not the best time to plant vegetation since exposure to sun, heat, and little available soil moisture can damage plants. Consult the many references available on plants with regards to the timing of your planting project.
Back to top or Back to home page For vegetation to survive being transplanted, or to grow well from seeds, cuttings, rhizomes, or layering horticultural techniques, you must consider where to place plants. Plants may have specific requirements or optimal growing conditions. Consider the way the slope faces the sun during the daytime. A south-facing slope tends to be drier and receive more intense sunlight than a north-facing slope. A north-facing slope usually has more available shade and tends to retain more soil moisture. Some plants may prefer to grow in full sunlight, whereas other plants may prefer partial or full shade. Choose plants that are adaptable to changing conditions.
Back to top or Back to home page A number of techniques can be used to plant vegetation to restore an eroding streambank. Vegetation may be transplanted from one location to another. Cuttings of plants may be grown in pots or flats and transplanted to streambanks. Root cuttings, rhizome cuttings, or plants that can be layered or grown from shoots or twigs placed in the soil may be used in revegetating streambanks. Plants grown from seedlings may also be used in the riparian zone.
Vegetation that is collected from salvage sites should be transplanted as soon as possible to ensure better survivability of the plants. To dig up the plants, use a sharp shovel blade to make a continuous circle around the dripline of the plant. The soil should be loosened around the plant before it is removed from its location. Plants that are salvaged should have plenty of soil around their roots, and the roots or root ball should be wrapped with a sheet of burlap and tied around the base of the shoots or trunks. Roots should be handled with care, and they should be not exposed to the air for very long.
To plant the tree or shrub, dig a hole approximately twice the size of the root ball both horizontally and vertically. A small mound of soil should be left in the hole before placing the plant into the hole. If the soil is not moist, a slurry of water and peat moss should be added to the newly dug hole. The plant may then be placed into the hole. If the plant's roots have been wrapped in burlap, the burlap does not need to be removed before planting. Otherwise the roots should be spread downward in the hole before adding the soil to fill the hole. Be careful not to cover up the trunk of the tree or plant so it cannot breathe. Once the soil has been added into the hole and up to the trunk of the plant, carefully tamp the soil around the plant with the sole of your boot. Water if necessary. Before planting, consider the distance needed between trees, shrubs, and groundcover so the plants will have enough room to grow.
There are various plants from which cuttings can be taken and placed directly on the streambanks. Native willows provide excellent cuttings. To take willow cuttings, select a healthy, native species of willow. Select branches at least one inch in diameter and four to five feet in length and make appropriate cuts. Cut the branches near the base of the plant. Don't butcher the willow tree, but take enough branches for willow cuttings or live stakes. Strip the leaves from the branches and prune excess twigs and small branches off the whip. Keep the willow branches (whips) damp or in water until they are to be cut into live stakes. The whips can also be made into waddles or bundles and used at the toe of the slope when revegetating the bank.
When making the willow branches into live stakes, cut the whips into 18 inch stakes. Make a diagonal cut at one end. The other end of the live stake will be a square cut. Hammer the stake into the soil with the diagonal cut pointing into the ground.
For all other cuttings, including root, or rhizome cuttings, chose a healthy plant that can be propagated from a cutting. The cuttings can be grown in flats or pots to establish a root system before being placed on the slopes. Alder cuttings can, however, be made into live stakes and placed immediately into the ground.
Back to top or Back to home page Plant availability is important when considering a tree planting project. If plants are available in the area adjacent to the project site, they may be used with permission, of course, from the land owner. Plants may be salvaged from forested areas after permission has been granted by the owner of the land, be it private, state, or federal. The Washington State Department of Natural Resources can provide a permit for individuals to collect various species of trees, shrubs and plants on land that is owned by their agency. It may also be necessary to obtain plants from local nurseries that specialize in growing native plants for riparian restoration projects. A list of nurseries is provided in Appendix B.
Plants may be purchased during annual plant sales from nurseries or local conservation districts. Before plants are purchased, one should consider that they may need to be stored at some location if the restoration projects have not yet begun. Arrangements may be made to store plants such as conifers in cold storage facilities. The Washington State Department of Natural Resources has a cold storage facility in Chehalis, Washington that may be contacted to store trees. If a private landowner near or at the specific restoration site agrees, plants may be temporarily stored in trenches dug into the ground near the restoration site.
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Where To Plant
How To Plant
Transplanting
Cuttings
Availability of Plants
Suitable Plant Listing
| Plant Name (Common Name) (Scientific Name) | Plant Type (Vine, Shrub Height & Propagation) | Habitat Preferred (Soil Moisture & Other Tolerances) | Benefits (Humans Wildlife, Environment) |
| Serviceberry Amelanchier florida | Vine- grows 12-40 ft. cuttings | Medium-dry soil moisture, shade tolerant | Browse-deer, elk Berries-birds, and mammals |
| Evergreen Huckleberry Vaccinium ovatum | Vine- grows 6-8 ft., seedlings | Medium-dry soil moisture, shade tolerate | Berries-wildlife, humans, cover |
| Salmonberry Rubus spectabilis | Vine- grows 4-10 ft., cuttings, seedlings | Moist soil, shade tolerant | Fruit-edible, binds soil |
| Snowberry Symphoricarpus albus | Shrub- grows 3 ft., cuttings, root cuttings, seedlings | Medium-dry moisture, shade tolerant | Food-wildlife, binds soil |
| Red-flowering currant Ribes sanguineum | Shrub- grows 3-6 ft., cuttings, layering | Medium moisture, shade tolerant | Berries-wildlife, cover-wildlife, landscaping |
| Oceanspray Holodiscus discolor | Shrub- grows 4-15 ft., cuttings | Medium-dry moisture, shade tolerant | Food-wildlife, binds soil, flowering shrub |
| Black Twinberry Lonicera involucrata | Shrub- grows 10-15 ft., cuttings | Medium moisture, shade tolerant, air pollution tolerant | Food, cover, browse-wildlife, binds soil, |
| Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana | Shrub- grows 6-8 ft., cuttings, root cuttings | Medium-dry moisture, shade tolerant | Food,cover-wildlife, streamside buffer binds soil |
| Oregon Grape Mahonia aquifolium | Shrub- grows 6-10 ft., seedlings | Medium-dry moisture, shade tolerant | Food,cover-wildlife, berries-edible, binds soil |
| Pacific Ninebark Physocarpus capitatus | Shrub- grows 12-15 ft.cuttings | Moist-medium moisture,shade tolerant | Berries-wildlife,binds soil |
| Red ElderberrySambucus racemosa | Grows 4-10 ft.,cuttings, layering,seedlings | Medium-dry moisture,shade tolerant | Cover-birds, wildlife, berries poisonous |
| Indian PlumOemleria cerasiformis | Grow 10-15 ft.,root cuttings,seedlings | Medium-dry moisture,partially shade tolerant | Food- wildlife |
| Bald-Hip RoseRosa gymnocarpa | Grows 3-6 ft.,root cuttings | Medium-dry moisture,Partially shade tolerant | Food, cover-birds, wildlife, binds soil |
| Red Osier DogwoodCornus stolonifera | Grows 15-16 ft.,start cuttings, layering,seedlings | Moist-medium moisture,shade tolerant | Food-wildlife,binds soil |
| Red AlderAlnus rubra | Grows 40-80 ft.layering, seedlings,cuttings | Moist-medium moisture,not shade tolerant | Food, cover-wildlife,fast growing |
| Vine MapleAcer circinatum | Grows 15-30 ft.,seedlings | Moist-medium moisture,very shade tolerant | Food-wildlife,binds soil |
| Oregon AshFraxinus latifolia | Grows 60-80 ft.,seedlings | Moist-medium moisture,not shade tolerant | Browse-wildlife,riparian canopy |
| Black CottonwoodPopulus trichocarpa | Grows 150-200 ft.,cuttings, seedlings | Moist-medium moisture,not shade tolerant | Cover-birds, riparian canopy,fast growning |
| Black HawthornCrataegus douglasii | Grows 20-30 ft.,seedlings | Medium-dry moisture,not shade tolerant | Food, cover-wildlife/birds, binds soil |
| HazelnutCorylus cornuta | Grows 15-20 ft.,root cuttings | Medium-dry moisture,not shade tolerant | Food- mammals,birds, binds soil |
| Pacific WillowSalix lasiandra | Grows 35-50 ft.,cuttings, 4-ft whips,layering , seedlings | Moist-medium moisture,not shade tolerant | Binds soil, fastgrowing, shade forstream, habitat |
| Big Leaf MapleAcer macrophyllum | Grows 30-95 ft.,seedlings | Medium-dry moisture,not shade tolerant | Binds soil, cover-wildlife, birds, canopy for shade |
| CascaraRhamnus purshiana | Grows 10-35 ft.,seedlings | Medium-dry moisture,shade tolerantsouth-facing slopes | Binds soil,cover-birds,laxative |
| Oregon White OakQuercus garryana | Grows 50-75 ft.,seedlings | Medium-dry moisture,not shade tolerant | Food, cover-w.gray squirrel, birds |
| Bitter CherryPrunus emarginata | Grows 25-40 ft.,seedlings | Medium-moist moisture,partially shade tolerant | Food- birds |
| Poplar (Hybrid)Populus trichocarpa Xdeltoides | Grows 50-70 ft.,cuttings, 4ft whips,seedlings | Medium-moist moisture,shade tolerant | Cover-birds,bank stabilization |
| Western HemlockTsuga heterophylla | Grows 60-225 ft.,seedlings | Medium-dry moisture,shade tolerant | Food (seeds)-birds, cover-wildlife, canopy for shade |
| Douglas FirPseudotsuga menziesii | Grows 200-250 ft,seedlings | Dry moisture,not shade tolerant | Food (seeds)-birds,fast growing, canopy for shade |
| Sitka SprucePicea sitchensis | Grows 60-200 ft.,cuttings, seedlings | Moist-medium moisture,shade tolerant | Food, cover-wildlife,binds soil, canopy |
| Western Red CedarThuja plicata | Grows 60-200 ft.,cuttings, seedlings | Moist-medium moisture,shade tolerant | Food, cover-wildlife,canopy for shade |
| Swamp RoseRosa pisocarpa | Grows 3-6 ft.,root cuttings | Medium-dry moisture,partially shade tolerant | Food, cover-birds,wildlife, binds soil |
| SalalGaultheria shallon | Grows 3-6 ft., runners | Medium-dry moisture,partially shade tolerant,poor soil tolerant | Food-birds, wildlife,binds soil |
| ThimbelberryRubus parviflorus | Grows 6-9 ft.,seedlings, cuttings | Medium-dry moisture,lightly shade tolerant | Food, cover- birds,wildlife, binds soil |
| Blue ElderberrySambucus cerulea | Grows 6-20 ft.,cuttings, layering,seedlings | Medium-dry moisture,shade tolerant | Food-birds, wildlife,binds soil, |
| Douglas spireaSpirea douglasii | Grows 3-5 ft.,seedlings | Moist-medium moisture,not shade tolerant | Cover-birds, wildlife |
| KinnikinnickArctostophylos uva ursi | Grows 3-5 in,runners | Medium-dry moisture,full sun | Binds soil, goodgroundcover |
| BunchberryCornus canadensis | Grows 3-5 in,runners | Medium-moist moisture,partially shade tolerant | Binds soil, goodgroundcover |
| Sword FernPolystichum munitum | Grows 3-5 ft.,seedlings, rhizomecuttings | Moist-medium moisture,shade tolerant | Binds soil, bankstabilization |
| False Lily of the ValleyMaianthemum dilatatum | Grow 3-12 in., rhizome cuttings | Moist-medium moisture,shade tolerant | Dense grond cover,binds soil |
| Small-Fruited BulrushScirpus microcarpus | Grows 2-5 ft.,rhizome cuttings | Moist-moist moisture,standing water | Food-ducks,binds soil |
| Juncus spp.Rushes | Variable,rhizome cuttings | Moist-moist moisturestanding water | Binds soil,erosion control |
| Carex spp.Sedges | Variable,rhizome cuttings | Moist-moist moisturestanding water | Food/Browse-deer,ducks, beavers,binds soil |
| Sitka WillowSalix sitchensis | Grows 10-30 ft.,cuttings, 4-ft whips,layering, seedlings | Moist-medium moisturenot shade tolerant | Cover-wildlife,binds soil, fast grow-ing, bank stablilization |
| Scouler's WillowSalix scouleriana | Grows 15-50 ft,cuttings, seedlings,4-ft whips | Medium-dry moisture,shade tolerant | Binds soil, fastgrowing, bank stabilization |
| Hooker WillowSalix hookeriana | Grows 10-26 ft.,cuttings, seedlings,4-ft whips | Moist-medium moisturenot shade tolerant | Binds soil, fastgrowing, bank stabilization |
| Erect WillowSalix ligulifolia | Grows 8-20 ft,cuttings, seedlings,4-ft whips | Moist-medium moisture,not shade tolerant | Binds soil, fastgrowing, bankstabilization |
| Arroyo WIllowSalix lasiolepis | Grows 15-35 ft.,cuttings, seedlings,4-ft whips | Moist-medium moisture,not shade tolerant | Binds soil, fastgrowing, bankstabilization |
| Columbia River WillowSalix fluviatilis | Grows 10-20 ft.,cuttings, seedlings,4-ft whips | Moist-medium moisture,not shade tolerant | Binds soil, fastgrowing, bankstabilization |
Contact or visit Washington Department of Ecology (DOE).
This page created and maintained by the Chehalis River CouncilCONCLUSION
USEFUL PUBLICATIONS
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Appendix A JARPA Permit
Appendix B - Plant Nurseries
NAME
ADDRESS
TELEPHONE NO.
Riverside Nursery
P.O. Box 669
Rochester, WA
98579
(360) 273-5668 Sound Native Plants
P.O. Box 10155
Olympia, WA
98502
(360) 866-1046 Lawyer Nursery
7515 Meridian Rd, S.E.
Olympia, WA
98513
(360) 456-1839 Thurston Conservation District Native Plant Sale
6128 Capitol Blvd.
Olympia, WA
98501
(360) 754-3588 Webster Nursery
P.O. Box 47017
Olympia, WA
98504-7017
(360) 753-5305 IFA Nurseries, Inc.
463 Eadon Road
Toledo, WA
98591
(360) 864-2803 Natives Northwest Co.
190 Aldrich Road
Mossyrock, WA
98564
(360) 491-6900 Weyerhaeuser Nursery
Tacoma, WA
98477
1-800-732-4769
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